Johnson

[DigitalBuddha]

Johnson 

[kilteddude]

Potential future Darwin Award winner?

[milnie]

The new home castration kit :\

[Boston Rockbury]

If that's a McCulloch he's perfectly safe. They never start.
If on  the other hand it's a Stihl it'll take about one second from splitting his man-sack in half to coming out through the top of his head.

[RighteousDude]

If that's a McCulloch he's perfectly safe. They never start.
If on  the other hand it's a Stihl it'll take about one second from splitting his man-sack in half to coming out through the top of his head.

It's a Stihl, an older one, and the ignition switch is in the off position. 

[Boston Rockbury]

Good idea to wear the camoflage kit so he can sneak up on the trees without them noticing.

There was originally another dude in the photo, who started the cut at the top of this dudes head and what we are seeing here is the final exit point just before the two halves fall apart.

By the way is the Stihl 'hobbyist' range any good or do you really have to go for the proper 'professional' models to get this sort of performance?

[RighteousDude]

By the way is the Stihl 'hobbyist' range any good or do you really have to go for the proper 'professional' models to get this sort of performance?

The major difference between the professional models and the others is that the engines in the professional models can be more economically rebuilt. A potentially considerable difference is that the professional models generally are lighter per volume of engine displacement. If memory serves, if you want the optional heated handle you have to step up to the pro models.

All that said, I've been running a Farm Boss (non-pro model) since 1996 and it has been completely trouble free the whole time. When it doesn't start within a few pulls I know it wants a new spark plug. My Stihl brush cutter is the same way, though a bit balkier for the first run after winter. After that it goes on the third pull when cold, and first when hot, very reliably.

[Boston Rockbury]

By the way is the Stihl 'hobbyist' range any good or do you really have to go for the proper 'professional' models to get this sort of performance?

The major difference between the professional models and the others is that the engines in the professional models can be more economically rebuilt. A potentially considerable difference is that the professional models generally are lighter per volume of engine displacement. If memory serves, if you want the optional heated handle you have to step up to the pro models.

All that said, I've been running a Farm Boss (non-pro model) since 1996 and it has been completely trouble free the whole time. When it doesn't start within a few pulls I know it wants a new spark plug. My Stihl brush cutter is the same way, though a bit balkier for the first run after winter. After that it goes on the third pull when cold, and first when hot, very reliably.

That's interesting and informative dude - I love this forum. One final question. When you sharpen the blades on the chain is it essential to have a jig to make sure that the rounded file hits the 'tooth' at the right angle or do you think this is something one can do just be eye? Sometimes I've sharpened a chain in an unbalanced way and it ends up cutting logs like a banana. Nothing better in this world than a well sharpened chain-saw blade though. It's a beautiful sight when you get them really spitting chips and carving through oak like butter.

[RighteousDude]

When you sharpen the blades on the chain is it essential to have a jig to make sure that the rounded file hits the 'tooth' at the right angle or do you think this is something one can do just be eye?

I recommend eyeballing only for touching up in the middle of a cutting session, but using a full on jig for serious sharpening. As you've seen, that "banana cut" is the result of mismatched depths and angles, and it leads to rapid bar wear, binding, and increased fire danger due to friction in the cut. All of that combined, a worn bar, a rough running chain, and binding in the cut leaves you at greater risk of injury or death. It's usually no big deal when an intact chain jumps the bar, but a flying (broken) chain can end your day in a pool of blood. Fuck that. The jig is cheap insurance, and saves you money over the long haul because your bars and chains last longer.

Myself, if I've got an all day cutting session ahead of me, I start with two chains and two bars -- I always marry a chain to a bar so both wear together and last longer, and replace bars after two chains have been worn out on them. I'll then touch up two or three times before lunchtime, and swap out the bars/chains at lunchtime. Then I'll touch up two or three times through the end of the session, and at the end of the day when I'd really rather be in the house relaxing I do proper sharpening and thorough saw cleaning on the workbench. Going at it this way, my bars and chains last a lot longer and if I should happen to break a chain I've got another on hand and the interruption is at most ten minutes if I have to sharpen the first chain to replace the second. It's not much more than an inconvenience if you break your only chain cutting already downed wood, but if you're felling when your only chain breaks you end up with a lethal hazard.

And if you're felling anything substantial with a wandering saw you're asking for trouble anyway and will soon enough receive it. So don't do that.

[Boston Rockbury]

When you sharpen the blades on the chain is it essential to have a jig to make sure that the rounded file hits the 'tooth' at the right angle or do you think this is something one can do just be eye?

I recommend eyeballing only for touching up in the middle of a cutting session, but using a full on jig for serious sharpening. As you've seen, that "banana cut" is the result of mismatched depths and angles, and it leads to rapid bar wear, binding, and increased fire danger due to friction in the cut. All of that combined, a worn bar, a rough running chain, and binding in the cut leaves you at greater risk of injury or death. It's usually no big deal when an intact chain jumps the bar, but a flying (broken) chain can end your day in a pool of blood. Fuck that. The jig is cheap insurance, and saves you money over the long haul because your bars and chains last longer.

Myself, if I've got an all day cutting session ahead of me, I start with two chains and two bars -- I always marry a chain to a bar so both wear together and last longer, and replace bars after two chains have been worn out on them. I'll then touch up two or three times before lunchtime, and swap out the bars/chains at lunchtime. Then I'll touch up two or three times through the end of the session, and at the end of the day when I'd really rather be in the house relaxing I do proper sharpening and thorough saw cleaning on the workbench. Going at it this way, my bars and chains last a lot longer and if I should happen to break a chain I've got another on hand and the interruption is at most ten minutes if I have to sharpen the first chain to replace the second. It's not much more than an inconvenience if you break your only chain cutting already downed wood, but if you're felling when your only chain breaks you end up with a lethal hazard.

And if you're felling anything substantial with a wandering saw you're asking for trouble anyway and will soon enough receive it. So don't do that.

Thanks dude. I hadn't considered the increased risk of the chain jumping the bar - so a jig it is. I have a friend with a scar right in the middle of his forehead where a saw jumped back at him and almost made it right through his skull!

[Hominid]

You guys are bringing back memories... decades ago, I brought my chainsaw to a shop for repairs (a bent bar thanks to some wind that cause an elm tree I was felling, causing it to do a dance on my chainsaw)... anyways, the dude behind the counter was great - he gave me a loaner! He said "Beautiful fall day like this - shame not to be cutting!" So he sent me off with his favourite machine.  It was a honkin' big beast with a 24" bar. Well, I've never handled such a work of art... I was bucking up some seriously big ash, and the thing would actually balance on my index finger while roaring through the 18 to 20 inch logs like a hot knife through butter. The shavings were these perfectly formed pieces of wood; very little actual dust... the signs of one VERY well sharpened chain. I hated to return it!

[Boston Rockbury]

My current chainsaw is so badly sharpened that it friction burns the wood rather than cutting it. I'm 50:50 lazy and useless. Few years ago shortly after I'd bought my farmhouse my neighbour was walking past as I was putting the chain back on my old Husqvarna. Jeaneau is the nicest dude in the world and had this look like he wasn't sure if he should say anything. Anyhow after a little hesitation he said "you've put the chain back on the wrong way around". He didn't even add "asshole".

[BikerDude]

How to buy a chainsaw.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B19pXly8d6k

[Boston Rockbury]

More like this dude